September 2006 - France

Friday 13th
Not a good day to start a holiday and I was worried that something may happen but all the bad things happened before we left home, Roy usual holiday tummy problems, a flat tyre on the car which had to be changed and a cut finger from changing the wheel, what else could happen?
Roy and I met Mick and Netty early in the morning before the autumnal mist had cleared and had a good trip down to Maidstone Service area where we met up with Peter and Steph, Dennis and Christine, sporting their shiny new "hard boiled egg" helmets and Richard Chivers and his partner Sandra.
We all travelled down to the tunnel, it was Sandra's first time on the train and she was quite nervous, but the trip across was uneventful. Chris and I had a chat with a steward and apparently there are quite a few problems happening on a daily basis but we did not let on to Sandra.
Our first night was in the Etap at Calais and after a quick walk to City Europe for a meal in the John Bull pub (how British?) we all toddled back for an early night.

Saturday 14th October
A very foggy start with the mournful sound of the fog horns calling out through the mist. We decided not to do the coast road and drove down the motorway to Bayeaux, but not until we had witnessed Peter and Steph performing a very close rumba on the car park. So early in the morning, dancing? No it was just Peter squeezing Steph into her "all in one" suit!!!
Roy took the wrong turning on the motorway and we ended up in Le Havre for lunch. We stopped on the front at a little bistro which had run out of food!!! Well there was a national rowing competition on in La Havre with loads of fit men about (not on goldwings). So we raided Super U for a picnic and sat in the sun eating our picnic and being served by the bistro owner. After a very nice repast in the sun we headed inland again to the mist and rode of the magnificent "Pont Normandy", free to motorcycles!!!
We arrived at the beautiful town of Bayeaux, I didn't realise it was close to the Normandy landings (quite where I thought the Normandy landings took place I do not know, near Calais I think!!) Our hotel was right in the centre of the town and very French. After a quick freshen up we all headed to the Bayeaux tapestry exhibition, it was very interesting and we learnt more about British history that afternoon than all the time we were at school! Well, some of us did Richard (c) fell asleep during the film show and his thunderous snores filled the auditorium.
We then went off to explore the town and look for food; we were accosted by Richard (F) and Francoise, who were joining us for the remainder of the trip. The town of Bayeaux is very quaint and we were entertained by the antics of a group of wedding guests who had hooters, sirens and bells driving through the town.
Dinner that night was in a Pizzeria, where we all enjoyed an excellent meal. I somehow managed to throw a glass of water over Roy, who was wearing light coloured trousers, so he looked like he had a "accident", he was non plussed and took great delight in showing the other Pizzeria guest and the girls n the street, where he collected kisses!!
Sunday 15th October
Another misty start but not too bad, Richard and Sandra have left early so they can get to La Rochelle and explore the town.
The rest of us follow the route down towards Fleur, through clean quite towns that are awaking to the sound of the church bell calling them to worship. We now take a de tour and head out to Richard and Francoise's chateau for our coffee stop. After collecting some milk we stop at their lovely cottage with low beams and views across the countryside. It was very peaceful.
On the road again, after washing up our cups etc. Travelling through the people less shuttered villages and down the long straight traffic free roads of France.
We stopped for lunch at a Quick Q (like a McDonalds) as there did not appear to be any where else open.
During the afternoon Roy who was leading went very quiet on the CB (it had stopped working) and we were unaware of the calls from the others for a drink and comfort stop. When we did stop there was a rush to the loo and bar, the roadside establishment was also holding a tea dance and Dennis's foot was soon tapping and we expect he and Chris to give us a jiving display but they declined, the bike trousers would not allow it!!
Sally Sat Nav went a little berserk in La Rochelle and directed us all to the Maternity Hospital ( I think Ian was having a laugh as he had planned the routes) but we after various "U" turns found the hotel where Mo and Tina where waiting for us, after travelling by sea from Plymouth. We are now a full set.
We all went off for a meal by the old port with its flood lighted towers and shimmering water.
After the meal Pete, Steph, Roy and I went for a walk around with Pete and Roy taking photos of the statues and buildings.

Monday 16th October
Next morning Richard and Sandra, left long before us (they are early birds) We made our way through the beautiful countryside, along wide sweeping roads under clear blue cloudless skies, with the warm sun warming our bones. We could all see through the windscreens because the windscreen fairy had been busy, Richard (F) had taken the mantle on.
Mo, resplendent in his yellow and blue, traffic warden jacket, had misread his petrol gauge and his tank was on empty instead of three quarters, these "Sheds" are a problem!!! Luckily we managed to find a fuel and coffee stop at a big Auchen supermarket so all was well.
We stopped at Brantome for lunch but for the first time ever in France we felt the cold shoulder, even Françoise with her excellent French failed to find us somewhere to sit and eat.
Again we resorted to a picnic (well it was a budget tour) and in glorious sunshine by a beautiful river we enjoyed our lunch, feeding the ducks and playing with a game, Roy (will he never grow up?) had brought. It was a cup and ball and you had to catch the ball in the cup after the click in the cup had sent the ball into the air, harder than you would think, Christine managed it by leaping off the wall and nearly going head first in to the river. Poor ole Tina didn't manage it at all.
Off again and now it was getting really warm, stopped for more fuel and Mo turned windscreen and bike fairy but unfortunately he used the bucket and cloth the fuel station owner used to wash the diesel pumps with, so all the bikes were cover in a oily film!!!
We followed the beautiful Dordogne valley to La Roque Gageac where the boats were ferrying the people up and down. Here we stopped for coffee and looked at the village built into the side of the mountain and some rock climbers taking the hard way up.
We were nearing Gramat when Sally went mad and tried to take us up unmade road, we asked her to recalculate but she threw the map out of the window and would not play, so we resorted to the old fashioned method of reading sign posts!!!! And found our way!!!
The Lion D Ore hotel is set in the town centre and we received a warm welcome from Sharon and Peter, the owners. We had a beautiful cordon blue meal priced at €22.50!!! Excellent.
Dave and Sue called in with maps and routes of where they had planned to take us. Richard (F) lost his room keys and so the hotel was turned upside down looking for them but no joy, so he had to use the hotels skeleton key!
Tuesday 17th October
A late but filling breakfast after the previous early starts. There was a bit of a problem at the hotel as they had sprung a leak, Roy, Mo and Dave rolled up their sleeves and helped lift the carpet ready for the plumber, some people will do anything for a free room. Rick's keys are still missing so again the hotel is searched. The rest spent the morning cleaning the bikes; Mo had some cleaner which removed the diesel film, and exploring the town of Gramat. In the after noon Dave and Sue arrived on their shed to take us on a tour of the beautiful Lot valley.
We went through medieval towns and winding sweeping roads to the town of Rocamadour, clinging to the cliff face with its Church high above the town. We rode in possession through the narrow one way street and parked up at the bottom of the town. We then split up to explore and pick up some bargains as all the shops appeared to have a sale on. Finally, as usual we all end up in the coffee shop.
Then back to Gramat to prepare for another cordon blue meal. Netty "finds" the missing keys, they have been in her handbag all the time!!!
Dave and Sue join us for the evening meal, and I am afraid to say I go a little tipsy!!! But my command of the French language improved with each drink and even Françoise was praising me (Françoise is a French language teacher!)

Wednesday 18th October
Christine's birthday, and she was mortified when we all sang happy birthday to her. Although it was windy and a little over cast we decided to make the trip to the Millau Viaduct. The roads were very busy, full of traffic and road works so it took awhile to reach the viaduct. There was a viewing point which was quite a climb so Mick decided to stay with the bikes whilst the rest of us, like mountain goats clambered to the view point. What a magnificent view, despite the high winds, it was not moving. After a photo shoot we clambered back down to the bikes and drove towards the viaduct, I was expecting to be battered by the wind as we travelled over the structure but the airplane wing type wind deflectors did a fantastic job and we hardly felt a thing.
Once over the other side we went down to an exhibition which showed how the viaduct was built and had amazing facts e.g. it his higher than the Eiffel Tower! Then on to find a lunch stop.
As it was a budget trip, we stopped for some cheap petrol and an excellent lunch as at Patisserie and Bolognaise, which had an extensive array of pastries and sandwiches plus hot and cold drinks, all enjoyed with a magnificent view of the viaduct.
The trip to the hotel was again slow due to the amount of lorries and traffic. This made it a long but interesting day.
While we were at the viaduct Richard and Sandra, had decided to explore the market at Sol?... which is a medieval town, where they expected to see Knights in armour just around the corner? They also went back to Rocamadour and climbed the steps to the church, with much heavy breathing on Richards' part!!
That evening the 14 of us descended on a Pizzeria and then off to a local pub. I had an early night (too much pop the night before)
Thursday 19th October
Another lazy morning with shopping, bike cleaning (Mo windscreen fairy again) and lazing around. At 2.00pm we set off for the Gouffre de Padicrac. A large black hole in the earth with one and half hours of underground caves and boat rides. Everyone except Françoise and I went down (the mad fools) we waved from the top and watched them disappear into the black bowels of the earth, then went for ice cream and coffee with Dave and Sue, who had done the trip before.
We were soon joined by Mo and Tina, who had not gone any further than the entrance to the caves as Tina decided she did not like it (I do not blame her).
Underground - the caves were brilliant and well worth visiting, Roy puffed and panted all the way round, well he is a trained athlete!!? Dennis wanted the loo but could not go because he would have killed the blind scrimps and raised the water level!! When they reached the boat they were all packed in (see picture) the guide started to explain the scene in English but soon resorted to French, which Richard(c) translated for them or was he reading from the guide book? Peter decided to rock the boat (literally) which made them all huddle together. Nearer the end of the boat trip the guide started to jingle his pockets, hoping for a tip, as Dennis was there the guide was told "don't eat yellow snow"
Once above ground, the weary explorers joined the rest of us for coffee and ice cream, how many pistachio ice creams can Françoise eat??
Then we had a thunder storm which sent some scurrying back to the hotel, getting wet and others waiting until the storm had past and only getting a little damp.
A big thank you to Dave and Sue for arranging some excellent rides out.
Friday 20th October (Christine's Day)
Sharon and Peter waved us off as we began our trip back up to Calais and home. Mo and Tina were making their own way back up to catch the boat over to Plymouth, on the way they were calling in to Oradour-sur-Glane to look at the martyr village, which they have since said is well worth a visit.
Ian's route took us across the beautiful Lot Valley and Dordogne country side beside, wide smooth dark rivers and sweeping roads. Roy took a fairly sedate pace so that we could drink in the beautiful trees, which were turning, red, yellow, orange, and russet woven together with green, forming a vivid patchwork of colour across the rolling hills. This was really France in the Fall!!!
We stopped at an Auberge in Compost were we feasted on a meal of tuna salad beef bourgeon, green salad (declined), cheese and coffee all for the princely sum of €11 (budget prices) Two hours later, with non stop chatter for a normally quiet Françoise we staggered full and sleepy to our bikes. Roy had to up the pace as we were all beginning to fall asleep.
The weather becomes rainy for the first time on the holiday so we stopped for waterproofs to be donned. Dennis and Roy take the opportunity to water a rubbish bin!
We arrived at the Campanile in Nevers in time to book in and freshen up. Christine had a big smile on her face, she had really enjoyed the day, the pace and scenery were all to her taste. It was great to see her so happy.
Most of us were too still full from lunch so a gentle stroll was taken after a light dinner.

Saturday 21st October
Breakfast and then off again for the trip to Laon, which will be our final stop on the holiday.
The land was flat and the roads were empty, as always. The route took us through the champagne region where the fields of picked vines formed patchwork patterns on the soft rolling hills, we also noted that the trees had not started to turn further north, natures a strange thing.
The road was also lined for part of the way by yellow dalaks which Richard (F) informed us indicated that this road was Route Libertarian, the road that the American allies used when they helped liberated France. We had a bit of trouble with "sally" who stopped talking and recalculated on her own, but with the usual Elite U Turns, we kept more or less to the set route, Christine only had to dismount once and that's when the route took us through someone's back yard (thanks Ian)
As we had taken the non motorway route, food stops were very scarce and so when the welcome sight of an open Auberge, again we had the Plat du Jour which was sardine pate, pork and beans (!!!), cheese and ice cream, this time it only took an hour and a half to eat our way through. As we were leaving I saw the man with the "hand" and I will say no more!!!!
We followed the rain all the way and did not get wet, when we saw the Cathedral of Laon on the hill surrounded by the old town we knew the hotel was near by, but due to major road works, we could see it but not get there, luckily Roy and I knew the town quite well and eventually we found our rooms for the night.
Sunday 22nd October
Up before breakfast and the sun!! Richard and Françoise waved us goodbye, and took a brilliant photo, they were going to Belgium to see family.
As we head towards Calais the sun could be seen in the rear view mirror slowing crawling up above the horizon. After an hour with the cruise control set at 80mph we stopped for breakfast and fuel. Then off again to the Tunnel.
The automated check in is getting easier the more we use it and were soon in side again, some shopping and some enjoying a warm drink.
Our trip over on the train was in one of the coach wagons, which has loads of head room and far better, Sandra still didn't enjoy it but said it was better. After our goodbyes, we slowly began to peel off going up the M20 until we were in small groups of 1 or 2 bikes... Roy, Mike, Netty and I got absolulty soaked on the way home, we were so wet that I could do nothing but laugh!!!
Mo and Tina we hear had a delayed crossing because of the weather but arrived home safely.
I hope everyone had a good time, France is really beautiful in the Fall and the area around Gramat is well worth a visit at anytime. Peter and Sharon at the Le Lion D' Ore will always give you a warm welcome and the special rates for Elite Wingers.
